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Growing Bonsai is a rewarding hobby that is accessible to all. You hardly need any room at all and you’ve probably got most of the tools already lying around the house and garden. The only ’specialist’ equipment you may need to go and by will be a pair of chopsticks (yes, you read that right), a Bonsai pot and of course the tree or plant that you intend to turn into your Bonsai masterpiece.

You will need a small pair of sharp scissors as well as a larger pair. You will need wire to shape your branches and fine wire cutters. A small set of garden shears and a large set of garden shears just about completes the set however as you throw yourself more and more into Bonsai (once you’ve got the bug there will be no stopping you) you will probably want to consider purchasing slightly more specialist Bonsai tools including miniature Bonsai rakes and root combs. Don’t panic though, the price tag size matches the tool size and most are very affordable.

Where can I get Bonsai supplies?

Bonsai is becoming increasingly popular around the world and no matter where you live there is a good chance that you aren’t too far away from a Bonsai shop. Many garden centres and nurseries now also stock the tools you need and if you’re still struggling or if you like to shop from the comfort of your own home the Internet is literally awash with suppliers of everything you could need from compost to rakes with everything in between.

My best word of advice here is to find out exactly what you want and then shop around. Visit your local stores and have a look on the Internet. Always try to build up a relationship with whomever you are buying from in case you ever need that vital piece of advice that can mean the difference between a small, brown conifer and a beautiful Bonsai masterpiece.

As well as the essential tools and specific Bonsai equipment and compost you can buy decorative figurines, ornate pots and just about any other addition you could possibly imagine. The Internet provides you with the world’s largest marketplace for any items you may want so you aren’t at all restricted to the items you can buy at your local plant store so whether your needs are for manufactured, good quality and affordable equipment to hand thrown pots you will have no problem finding what you are looking for.

Bonsia HQ, bonsaihq.com/ for lots of information about looking after your bonsai.

Do they really exist? Where is the black orchid? These questions
and others have on orchid hobbyists minds for centuries.

Orchid growers and hobbyists have been trying to grow this
orchid for a very long time. They have tried many different
orchid plants and hybrid varieties to get to this orchid.

There seems to have been a fascination for black anything. You
have people striving for black gladiolus, black canna- lillies
and yes even black corn. (I’m not sure if they ever got the
black corn.)

There are many other references to “black orchid” in detective
mysteries, in names of clubs and restaurants as well as on the
stage. In fact, go on to Amazon and look at the book “Black
Orchid” by Dave McKean.

As far as I can judge from the reviews growers were close but
still didn’t accomplish what their goal was. Some of the orchids
that do come close include the Laelicattleya Lc Mem. Robert
Strait “Blue Hawaii” which has a black lip.

The Vanda David Gardner #1 has purplish areas under black
speckles. There is a black tongued orchid, the Epigeneium
amplum. Another example is the Liparis nervosa, a Japanese
version of this orchid plant but when you look at it you can
seen it is not really black.

There are still a lot of misconceptions about orchids. Some of
the myths that still persist include that orchids are difficult
to grow. This can’t be further from the truth. In fact today
orchids like the phalaenopsis or cattleyas are very easy to
grow.

Another misconception is that all orchids need to grow in a
greenhouse. Once again, some of the best places for orchid
plants is in the home where there is bright light. Some of the
orchids do well near a West facing window.

It seems that all the hard work by hybridization specialists
still have been alluded them and the orchid has not really been
developed. It remains a hope for any grower or hobbyist to get
the crown that says, “I did it”.

Resource Box Sign up for tips in our monthly Orchid Newsletter
and get your copy of “All About Orchids” e-book and your 10%
Discount on an orchid. http
://www.orchids-plus-more.com/orchidaceae.html

In order to buy flowers at the best price you need to be looking
at ways to get them in quantity. I have been involved in the
floristry industry for several years and i my experience bulk
buying is the key to the success in the industry. For hundreds
of years there have been flower sellers in markets and i do
believe that if more of the flower sellers got together they
could command a better price from the suppliers and this would
enable them to either make more profit or to pass on the savings
to customers which could also lead to more profit due to more
people being able to buy flowers at better prices.

The dutch market is best for buying in bulk as the dutch bulb
fields are some of the most advanced in the world and holland
produces some of the finest flowers. Of course we are not just
talking about flowers here but more of the whole industry and
the industry does need a bit of a shakeup as there are certain
sellers that seem to want to make more money than is needed and
also control the market which is not good for the end user and
the person that actually drives the market. I have personally
bought flowers from gasoline stations for very high prices and
these flowers were almost dead which is not good as the prices
are out of this world and you are in fact paying some of the
highest prices for some of the worst flowers.

You may use this article as content for your site as long as
you include a live link to http://www.wholesale-flowers.org/
with the keyword `Wholesale Flowers` over the link. Link as
below. Wholesale
Flowers

With an increasing tendency for empty nesters, young couples and singles towards higher density inner city living, and the desire to spend minimal time on maintaining gardens or other outdoor spaces, most new apartments, townhouses and condominiums tend to have only pocket sized backyards, courtyards or balconies. So it becomes particularly important to make the most of such limited areas by landscaping and utilizing the space in the best possible way.

But you don’t have to be a professional landscape architect to create an inviting courtyard space - you just have to follow a few basic design principles. Whilst you can’t physically increase the size of a small garden, you can certainly employ a few visual tricks to create the illusion of space.

One important way of doing this is to create a thematic link between the indoor and outdoor areas. Linking the backyard or courtyard to the family room or kitchen, breaks down the division between inside and outside, making the total area appear larger. To establish this link, try to use paving materials that are similar to those used in the house. If you have a tiled area inside, consider extending the same or similar tiles outside.

If you have a solid wood or wood laminate floor, one simple solution is to lay interlocking wood deck tiles on the external patio or courtyard (see for example http://www.ezydeck.net). Although such tiles are best laid over a concrete pad, they can also be laid over a level and well compacted gravel surface. And they can be moved and re-laid at will should you decide to change the design of your outdoor space at any time.

Light colours in the paving and on the courtyard walls will also create an impression of space, so lighter colored tiles would generally be preferable in small spaces.

In confined spaces, more space should be devoted to sitting & walking areas than to plants which should be placed in wide, raided beds. Deck tiles could be used as “stepping stones” along a pathway interspersed with gravel or stones and bordered by plantings.

A favourite piece of sculpture can be used a focal point providing it is in keeping with the general theme of the courtyard. But don’t overdo the garden art. One sculpture or water feature is more than enough.

Clan simple lines are generally better in small situations rather than a “busy” appearance and a formal look is usually more suitable than an informal look. Several large pots or planter boxes will look less cluttered than numerous small ones.

Avoid using flowers with strong red, yellow or orange colours as they tend to “advance” towards you. Blues, purples and grays are preferable because they are not dominating. And make sure plants are selected for all round appeal and not just for a brief burst of colour for a few weeks, but dull for the rest of the year.

With a bit of planning, even the smallest of areas can be made to look larger than you may think.

About the author:

Malcolm Kay is the CEO of Intex Pacific Pty. Ltd. an international supplier of landscape materials including modular decking tiles. For more information see http://www.swiftdeck.com

Where did orchids originate? One may as well ask where man
originated, for like man, the ubiquitous orchid is found on
nearly every continent in nearly every climate. Also like man,
the orchid has a myriad varieties and forms - so many that one
botanist has stated, “There is no such thing as a typical
orchid.”

There are over 30,000 varieties of orchid not including manmade
hybrids. Most people think of orchids as tropical plants, but
there are mentions of orchids in Chinese writings as early as
500 B.C. In the Western world, the Greek botanist Theophrastus
mentioned Orchis in manuscripts around 300 B.C. An Aztec herbal
dating from the 1600s mentions vanilla, a type of orchid. From
Egypt to the Americas, from the South Seas to the mountains of
Switzerland, there are native varieties of orchids that grow in
the woods, the rain forests, the mountains and even the seashore.

The modern day history of orchid cultivation, however, begins in
the 1880s when William Cattley of England received a shipment of
ornamental plants from the Brazilian jungles. The plants were
packed in bulbs of another plant for protection, and out of
curiosity, Cattley placed one of those plants into his glass
house (what we now call a greenhouse). That plant was the
Cattleya labiata orchid - the plant that most people think of as
the ‘orchid’.

Some of the most enchanting members of the orchid family are far
less showy. The delicate lady slipper and brightly colored
Calypso fairy slipper are found in the Northern woods from New
England through Canada, and the Thai spider (bulbophyllum
medusae) with its mane of ‘hair’ grows in the lowlands of
Thailand. To learn more about orchids and other plants please
visit www.orchidgeeks.com

You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your
newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the
contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active
links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate
link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

Having an ample supply of good rich compost is the gardeners
dream. It has many uses, and all of those uses will result in
nicer plants. However, composting can be time consuming and hard
work. I place a reasonable value on my time, so spending hours
and hours turning compost piles doesn’t qualify as a worthwhile
exercise, at least in my book. Nonetheless, I do compost, but I
do so on my terms.

I built two composting bins. Each bin is five feet wide, five
feet deep, and four feet high. I built the bins by sinking 4″ by
4″ posts in the ground for the corners, and then nailed 2 by 4’s
and 1 by 4’s, alternating on the sides.

I left 2″ gaps between the boards for air circulation. The 2 by
4’s are rigid enough to keep the sides from bowing out, and in
between each 2 by 4 I used 1 by 4’s to save a little money. The
bins are only 3 sided, I left the front of the bins open so they
can be filled and emptied easily. Photos of my compost bins are
on this page: http://www.freeplants.com\composting.htm

I started by filling just one of the bins. I put grass
clippings, dried leaves, and shrub clippings in the bins. I try
not to put more than 6″ of each material on a layer. You don’t
want 24″ of grass clippings in the bin and you should alternate
layers of green and brown material. If necessary, keep a few
bags of dry leaves around so you can alternate layers of brown
waste and green waste.

When we root cuttings we use coarse sand in the flats, so when
it’s time to pull the rooted cuttings out of the flats, the old
sand goes on the compost pile. In our little backyard nursery we
also have some plants in containers that do not survive. Rather
than pulling the dead plant and the weeds out of the container,
and then dumping the potting soil back on the soil pile, we just
dump the whole container in the compost bin. This adds more
brown material to the mix, and is a lot easier than separating
the soil and the weeds.

Once the bin is full, the rules of composting say that you
should turn the material in the bin every few weeks. There is no
way that I have time to do that, so this is what I do. I pack as
much material in the bin as I can before I start filling the
second bin. I pile the material as high as I possibly can, and
even let it spill out in front of the bin. Then I cover all the
fresh material with mulch or potting soil, whatever brown
material I can find.

Then when I’m out working in the garden I set a small sprinkler
on top of the pile and turn it on very low, so a small spray of
water runs on the material. Since I have a good water well, this
doesn’t cost me anything, so I let it run for at least two hours
as often as I can. This keeps the material damp, and the
moisture will cause the pile to heat up, which is what makes the
composting action take place.

Once I have the first bin completely full, I start using the
second bin. As the material in the first bin starts to break
down, it will settle and the bin is no longer heaped up, so I
just keep shoveling the material that I piled in front of the
bin, up on top of the pile, until all the material is either in
the bin, or piled on top of the heap. Then I just leave it
alone, except to water it once in a while. The watering isn’t
necessary, it just speeds the process.

Because I don’t turn the pile, I can’t expect all of the
material to rot completely. The material in the center is going
to break down more than the material on the edges, but most of
it does break down quite well. The next step works great for me
because I’ve got a small nursery, so I keep a pile of potting
soil on hand at all times. But you can really do the same thing
by just buying two or three yards of shredded mulch to get
started, and piling it up near your compost bins. If you do
this, you will always have a supply of good compost to work with.

Shredded bark, left in a pile will eventually break down and
become great compost. The potting soil that I use is about 80%
rotted bark. I make potting soil by purchasing fine textured and
dark hardwood bark mulch, and I just put it in a pile and let it
rot. The secret is to keep the pile low and flat, so that it
does not shed the rain water away. You want the mulch to stay as
wet as possible, this will cause it to break down fairly quickly.

So I keep a pile of rotted bark mulch near my compost bins.
When both bins are completely full, I empty the bin containing
the oldest material by piling it on top of my rotted bark mulch.
I make sure the pile of rotted mulch is wide and flat on top so
that when I put the material from the compost bin on top of the
pile, the compost material is only 5 to 10 inches thick.

My mulch pile might be 12′ wide, but it may only be 24 to 30
inches high. Once I have all the compost on top of the pile,
then I go around the edge of the pile with a shovel, and take
some of the material from the edges of the pile and toss it up
on top of the pile, covering the compost with at least 6″ of
rotted bark. This will cause the compost material to decompose
the rest of the way.

Once you get this system started, you never want to use all of
the material in the pile. Always keep at least 2 to 3 cubic
yards on hand so you’ve got something to mix with your compost.
If you use a lot of compost material like I do, then you should
buy more material and add to your pile in the late summer or
fall, once you are done using it for the season.

Around here many of the supply companies sell a compost
material that is already broken down quite well. This is what I
buy to add to my stockpile. But I try to make sure that I have
at least 3 yards of old material on hand, then I’ll add another
3 yards of fresh material to that. Then in the spring I’ll empty
one of the compost bins and add the compost to the top of the
pile.

The pile of usable compost will be layers of material, some
more composted than others. Kind of like a sandwich. So what I
do is chip off a section of the pile from the edge, spread it
out on the ground so it’s only about 8″ deep, then run over it
with my small rototiller. This mixes it together perfectly, and
I shovel it onto the potting bench.

Having a pile of rotted compost near your compost bins is great
because if you have a lot of leaves or grass clippings, you can
throw some rotted compost in the bin in order to maintain that
layered effect that is necessary in order for the composting
process to work well.

Sure this process is a little work, but it sure is nice to have
a place to get rid of organic waste anytime I like. Then down
the road when I have beautiful compost to add to my potting
soil, I am grateful to have done the right thing earlier, and I
know that I have wasted nothing.

(ARA) - The average American does a little too much celebrating at this time of year. Between Thanksgiving and the New Year, most of us will gain seven pounds as a result of indulging in extra helpings, snacking on holiday treats, having an extra glass of wine and exercising less.

Life Time Fitness, Inc., a Healthy Way of Life company that operates 30 multi-purpose, state-of-the-art Sports, Fitness and Recreational Centers in eight national markets — Minnesota, Illinois, Michigan, Ohio, Indiana, Virginia, Arizona, and Texas — has set the industry standard in providing consumers with the absolute finest in sports and fitness centers

“This is an especially challenging time of year for those who are trying to maintain healthy habits such as working out and eating low-fat, low-calorie foods,” says Jeff Zwiefel, vice president of the nutritional products division at Life Time Fitness. “We’re constantly urged to have another helping, enjoy a holiday treat or skip the workout to go shopping instead. No wonder nearly everyone gains weight,” he points out.

But complete deprivation is not the answer. “The holidays are meant to be enjoyed,” Zwiefel says. “At Life Time Fitness, we think it’s possible to balance healthy habits with enjoying special gatherings and traditions. We encourage balance and moderation in all areas of your life,” he says.

Here are 10 great tips, courtesy of Zwiefel, for staying fit and eating well over the holidays.

1) Drink lots of water throughout the day. It suppresses the appetite and is something everyone should do year round.

2) Snack on fruits, vegetables and high-fiber foods whenever possible. Dried fruits are healthy and a good alternative to many sweet snacks such as cookies and candy.

3) Limit alcohol consumption. Remember that alcohol contains almost as many calories per gram as fat. Alternate alcoholic drinks with water or club soda while you’re at a party.

4) Enjoy the outdoors as much as possible: bundle up and take the dog for a walk, and try skating or sledding; squeeze 10-minute walks into your schedule. Any extra activity helps.

5) Health and fitness centers offer a combination of cardio and resistance-training opportunities, as well as group fitness classes and personal training, that are essential to maintaining a healthy way of life. If you’re thinking about joining a fitness center, fall is a great time to sign up.

6) Acknowledge that you’re probably going to miss some workouts during this time and plan now to work around it. Schedule different times or substitute another activity, even if it’s at home.

7) Eat a nutritious meal or snack before you attend events or parties where there is a lot of food, or use a small plate to avoid overindulging. Another good tip is to leave at a reasonable hour. In addition to helping you get enough sleep during this hectic time of year, you’ll also be removing yourself from the temptation to continue eating unnecessary calories.

For the 9 out of 10 adults who do not get the essential daily vitamins and nutrients from the food they eat, nutritional supplements should be considered. Life Time Fitness offers a full line of nutritional products, including men’s and women’s multivitamins, energy bars and shakes and weight-loss supplements.

9) Enlist the help of a family member or friend to help keep you on track with healthy habits during the holidays. Choose someone who can provide not only encouragement, but a good example as well.

10) Remember that balance, variety and moderation apply to holiday celebrations as well as to most other things in life, so don’t be too hard on yourself if you slip up. Keep your good intentions, spend time with family and friends and enjoy the holidays.

For more information about Life Time Fitness centers and nutritional products, please visit www.lifetimefitness.com.

Courtesy of ARA Content

About the author:

Courtesy of ARA Content

Hi there,

I am Jhon Saunders and recently took up gardening as a hobby. i have managed to buy cheap gardening equipment and also items such as blubs, lights etc. I have submitted various articles on mow I did this. To view this articles, please search under my name.

Sunflowers, what are they and why am I writing about them?

Well to put it frankly, sumflowers really do liven up any garden and they are so easy to cultivate. Literally, all you need to do is plant a sunflower seed ( you are not going to ask me where to get hold of these are you!) and then just add water.

The advantages of growning flowers like sunflowers is they also attract bees. Due to there size, they also add a focal point to the garden. For this reason, most houses here in the UK, tend to plan them in their front yard.

Just out of interest, if you goto the South Of France, you can drive through fields and fields of sunflowers- a very beautiful se.

On average mu sunflowers grow to 5 foot in hight, but I have seen neighbours grown to 7 foot- what a sight. Isn’t nature amazing, that fromsuch a small seed can grow such a beautiful flower?

I highly recommend growing sunflowers, as they are easy, just add water and a bit of sunlight and they definately bring sunshine to your garden.

Go on give it a try

John

Recently took up gardening as a hobby.

http://www.lawn-mower-parts.info

John Sanders

(NC)Lighting up the home for the holiday season is a great way to add warmth and a touch of holiday spirit to any home. The lighting team at Canadian Tire has put together some tips to help Canadians add a little lighting magic to their homes without blowing their holiday budget.

Decorating with lights

• Adorning the outside of the house with lights and decorations immediately sets a festive tone for family and friends.

• To accent special features of the house like the roofline or pillars, choose ribbon lights or for a cascading waterfall effect, hang icicle lights from the roofline.

• For a versatile lighting option, try rope lights. They can be bent or shaped to fit virtually any application.

• Garland lights that feature clusters of lights are perfect for lining doorways, fences and pillars.

• To add some fun for the kids and liven up your yard, choose from Canadian Tire’s line up of illuminated figures including angels, reindeers, Santa or a moose.

Conserve energy and save money

• Often forget to turn your lights off? Timers are the perfect solution as they can be programmed to automatically turn off both indoor and outdoor lights.

• Many people go away during the holidays, leaving their homes unattended. By setting the timer, lights will automatically go on and give the appearance that someone is home, enhancing security.

• Using timers year round will go a long way to reducing energy consumption and saving money.

• Choose strings of lights with C7 bulbs. These environmentally friendly bulbs help conserve energy and come in a variety of colours.

• Visit your local Canadian Tire store and pick up an Energy Conservation brochure for more tips on saving energy all year long.

- News Canada

About the author:

News Canada

Outdoor benches are an excellent way to enhance a garden, create additional seating in a backyard or add a resting spot for a business. With outdoor benches, you will discover a huge selection of materials such as stone, wood, concrete, brick, etc. Keep in mind that one type of material is not necessarily better than another with a few exceptions. As an example, if you choose something like granite, marble, stone, or concrete, the seats will be hard so if you are looking to provide a comfortable resting area, cushions would be required. In addition, some types of wood do better than others. Teak, redwood, beech, birch, cherry, ash, maple, oak, mahogany, poplar, walnut, pecan, and cedar are excellent choices for outdoors.

Since wood outdoor benches are the most popular, we will address those in particular for this article. First, wood is easy to work with, offers a warm, rich, and inviting appearance, and is very durable. Depending on the design of the outdoor bench, it may or may not be made with a combination of solid wood and veneer. Regardless of the type of wood being used, the quality of construction for the outdoor bench is crucial. First, the outdoor bench needs to be made using the best joint method and second, the outdoor bench must be stable and sturdy.

For the joints, manufacturers use a number of methods. The tongue and groove method is very popular in that it looks nice and neat while providing the needed stability. Another method is known as mortise and tenon, which involves a socket and two pieces of projecting wood. Other options for the joints include a doweled joint where a wood pin fits tightly into a drilled out hole, rabbeted and butted joint that has two pieces of wood placed at angles, glued, and stapled, bolted or corner blocked if rigidity is a concern, and finally, the least expensive method for outdoor bench joints is with stapling. The downside to this is that as people sit down and get up from the outdoor bench, the staples can eventually work free.

The second factor for selecting wooden outdoor benches is the stability and sturdiness. Since people of all sizes will be sitting down, you obviously want a bench that will accommodate various weights. To ensure sturdiness, you would need to make sure the bench meets certain criteria. If the bench has a back, then the outside posts or rungs on either side will need to go all the way through the bench seat to the underside, making the posts and rungs less likely to break. In addition, the legs of the outdoor bench need to be solid and large enough to handle weight.

One way to tell if the bench is not sturdy enough is to sit on it. If you hear a creaking noise, then you should be concerned. While sitting, move your weight back and forth a little to see if the bench feels secure or wobbly. You can also do a push/pull test with your hands, pressing on the bench’s legs to see if they feel solid or loose. Most manufacturers will provide specifications on the various types of outdoor benches so you will know exactly the weight limitations, type of wood used, the joint process, and so on. Use this information to your advantage when selecting an outdoor bench so you end up with the type that best suits your needs.

Jennifer Akre is a successful business owner of numerous furniture websites such as http://www.SimplyBenches.com. Her sites provide product and information about garden bench styles and other furniture and decor for your patio or home.